Bringing Home the Beacon: Day One in Wonder City

Home 2.5 weeks since Tokyo, jetlag looms but experiences resonate from eight days and nights in the flowery city. 

With thanks to the team at HITO-Communications Inc. for their generous hospitality, my first full date in Japan (17 Sept.) included a half-day trio of tourism experiences designed for international media registered with World Athletics. 

After boarding our bus at Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium--site of 1964 Olympic gymnastics, 2020 Olympic table tennis and our World Championships accreditation pickup--the tour entourage with about 20 journalists from Australia, U.K., Slovakia and USA set out for Takarayu, which we learned is one of six remaining sento public bathhouses in the capital and 430 nationwide (down from 2,600 in 1968). 

Nestled in a low-rise residential area near barber shops and small markets, the family-owned business' name means "treasure hot spring" according to handout materials, from which the following details were also noted.  

Currently operated by the founder's grandsons, great-granddaughter and other employees with tenures over 70 years, the sento's current shrine-inspired building opened in 1938, now with features including:

• 
  A wrap-around veranda overlooking an Oniwa Japanese garden featuring dozens of koi and seasonal hydrangeas, a lovely place for tea and meditation before or after the bathing experience

• Numerous carvings, sculptures and paintings--including panoramic murals over the bathing areas--featuring guardian deities or award-winning likenesses of Mt. Fuji and its neighboring lakes

• 
  Nods to nostalgia, like yellow buckets known as "icons of the sento" popularized by a Japanese pharmaceutical company, or imported touches like a spa from Finland installed in 1986

While walking together barefoot was the closest our group got to nudity, sento tradition calls for all patrons to don their birthday suits in gender-specific sections of the venue (our blended tour was on the men's side). 

With some post-visit research inspired by the owner's presentation, I learned this comfortable group nudity is a form of camaraderie or "skinship" as "everyone is equal" in the sento scene, aka hadaka no tsukiai. A few of us dipped our arms to the elbows for a low voltage "electric bath" in which pulses of electricity visibly vibrated the skin with current strong enough to buzz one's bones along the edge of discomfort. Coincidentally, the electrified tub resided near the floor-to-ceiling "Hell Painting" in vivid red hues. 

With our group photo and brief return-to-bus hike complete, tour stop two brought us to the 27 level Asakusa View Hotel and its top floor "Mushashi" Sky Grill Buffet restaurant, a sumptuous experience blending Asian and Western cuisine. 

I made a point of trying the exotic-to-me jellyfish salad (gooey with some zing) and a grilled kebab of octopi (chewy) but avoided a few mystery dishes (even the English descriptions spelled too much risk for my palate). Also, fell in love with the fresh juice bar with acai smoothies, a sweet and tasty Brazilian treat last enjoyed during the Rio 2016 Games. 

But even the best chef-crafted dishes at Mushashi are upstaged by the dining room's panoramic views facing Tokyo's oldest temple, Senso-ji, and its neighbor Asakusa Shrine (both of which top the to do list for my next Japan visit), with Asahi's beer glass-shaped world headquarters and its distinctive "flame object" (aka "golden turd") also visible from the hotel. 

The lunchtime vista also foreshadowed our third tour stop to, and my eyes' first views of, the globe's third-tallest freestanding structure, Tokyo Skytree. 

While my hunch before arrival was that the world's third-tallest building would be visible from anywhere across Tokyo, that assumption proved untrue. 

Rather, my first sightings of the 2,080-foot/634m building were from the penthouse lunch and from street level a few blocks from arrival, where our driver plunged his vehicle into a subterranean parking lot expansive enough to fit fifty -- that's 50! -- tour buses. Since our party including official Tokyo tourism officials, we parked in space No. 1, naturally). 

Inside the tower's base, I found the cavernous lobby akin to Lower Manhattan's National Sept. 11 Memorial atrium in terms of comfortably accommodating thousands of daily visitors and keeping them engaged whilst waiting in long lines for four express elevators -- each designed to highlight traditional and elegant Japanese handicrafts celebrating each season -- built to whisk 40 passengers at a time. By the way, advance ticket purchases are very strongly suggested for families, couples and/or solo travelers. 

Our group was treated to views from an "off limits" peek up the tower's frame, an "architectural upskirt view" a U.K. reporter quipped to the groans of some and bewilderment of our hosts. 

Strangely, my ears did not pop when we unloaded on what is named Floor 350 (the levels correspond with meters above terra firma). Our first stop: The W1SH Ribbon monument at which visitors may purchase a gashapon vended bubble enclosing a swatch of colored fabric on which guests write their hopes or dreams for others or themselves. 

It was fun to tether my green-n-Sharpie edition on a branch near Olympic and World Champion Sergei Bubka tied his message the previous day, according to our guide. 

I spent our remaining time at Tembo Deck snapping photos and spotting landmarks across the cityscape. 

One unexpected sight was the outdoor window washers smiling back at dazed tourists. 

Though not as knee-quake terrifying as Chicago's Skydeck, there's also an expanse of glass flooring for those who wish to look at SkyTree's design from up top to bottom (cue the overheard Brit wit comment "downblouse!" views).  

The entourage then ascended to the Tembo Galleria at 450m, which features a wrap-around ramp to reach on foot the tour's apex at 451.2m, Sorakara Point, for more views. 

Sadly, the afternoon sky and horizon was only clear enough to make out the mountain range to our west, but not the all-star attraction, Fujisan. 

But our SkyTree experience did include a view of Mt. Fuji in that to promote the tower's home district and its hundreds of years of cultural history, as well as less-celebrated green initiatives, developers and Tokyo University's faculty of international tourism management collaborated to create "a traditional hands-on craft learning program for our sustainable planet" or #SusPla, from the first three letters of the last two words. 

Our handicraft du jour: Make your own mini screen, offered by Kataoka Byoubu, which enabled each member of our tour to create and take home a Edo keepsake. To recall the day, my screen selection was a semi-glossy version of Red Fuji, the famous woodblock print, and the mini screen now adorns a bedroom bookshelf. 

The hands-on program also offers Kimekomi fabric ball crafting and other cultural experiences. We all had a great time with our glue-coated paint brushes, but none of us were having a ball. 

Each of our tour hosts, from the bus team and guides to the owners of Takarayu and instructors at Kataoka Byoubu, earned sustained ovations and expressions of domo arigato for creating a fantastic introduction to several aspects of Tokyo. 

I also appreciated the Tokyo Metro Government office for providing a helpful brochure for the city, and interesting read during a family cafe meal en route to Japan National Stadium for my first night at the World Championships (more on that in next post to this site).  

A few nights later at another penthouse viewing point I caught my only nighttime glimpses of the SkyTree, brilliantly illuminated in violet for the World Athletics Championships, bringing to mind the tower's Olympic hues during the Tokyo 2020 Games-turned-2021 (see below). 

Tokyo shows the world how to bring home the beacon. 

Image credits: Top photo by Jordan McChesney; most other photos by Nicholas Wolaver except the screen image of Red Fuji via this retail site. Olympic and Tokyo 2025 images copyright Tokyo-Skytree