Bringing Home the Beacon: Day One in Wonder City

Home 3.5 weeks since Tokyo, jetlag looms but experiences resonate from eight days and nights in the flowery city. 

With thanks to the team at HITO-Communications Inc. for their generous hospitality, my first full date in Japan (17 Sept.) included a half-day trio of tourism experiences designed for international media registered with World Athletics. 

After boarding our bus at Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium--site of 1964 Olympic gymnastics, 2020 Olympic table tennis and our World Championships accreditation pickup--the tour entourage with about 20 journalists from Australia, U.K., Slovakia and USA set out for Takarayu, which we learned is one of six remaining sento public bathhouses in the capital and 430 nationwide (down from 2,600 in 1968). 

Nestled in a low-rise residential area near barber shops and small markets, the family-owned business' name means "treasure hot spring" according to handout materials, from which the following details were also noted.  

Currently operated by the founder's grandsons, great-granddaughter and other employees with tenures over 70 years, the sento's current shrine-inspired building opened in 1938, now with features including:

• 
  A wrap-around veranda overlooking an Oniwa Japanese garden featuring dozens of koi and seasonal hydrangeas, a lovely place for tea and meditation before or after the bathing experience

• Numerous carvings, sculptures and paintings--including panoramic murals over the bathing areas--featuring guardian deities or award-winning likenesses of Mt. Fuji and its neighboring lakes

• 
  Nods to nostalgia, like yellow buckets known as "icons of the sento" popularized by a Japanese pharmaceutical company, or imported touches like a spa from Finland installed in 1986

While walking together barefoot was the closest our group got to nudity, sento tradition calls for all patrons to don their birthday suits in gender-specific sections of the venue (our blended tour was on the men's side). 

With some post-visit research inspired by the owner's presentation, I learned this comfortable group nudity is a form of camaraderie or "skinship" as "everyone is equal" in the sento scene, aka hadaka no tsukiai. For a thrill, a few of us dipped our arms to the elbows, immersing them in a low voltage "electric bath" in which pulses of electricity visibly vibrated the skin with current strong enough to buzz one's bones along the edge of discomfort. Coincidentally, the electrified tub resided near the floor-to-ceiling "Hell Painting" in vivid red hues. 

With our group photo and brief return-to-bus hike complete, tour stop two brought us to the 27 level Asakusa View Hotel and its top floor "Musashi" Sky Grill Buffet restaurant, a sumptuous experience blending Asian and Western cuisine (my cousin tells me the name refers to a famous warrior and subject of a fresh National Geographic article). 

I made a point of trying the exotic-to-me jellyfish salad (gooey with some zing) and a grilled kebab of octopi (chewy) but avoided a few mystery dishes (even the English descriptions spelled too much risk for my palate). Also, fell in love with the fresh juice bar with acai smoothies, a sweet and tasty Brazilian treat last enjoyed during the Rio 2016 Games. 

But even the best chef-crafted dishes at Mushashi are upstaged by the dining room's panoramic views facing Tokyo's oldest temple, Senso-ji, and its neighbor Asakusa Shrine (both of which top the to do list for my next Japan visit), with Asahi's beer glass-shaped world headquarters and its distinctive "flame object" (aka "golden turd") also visible from the hotel. My cousin shared that the designer of this Flamme d'or, Phillippe Starck, drew inspiration from an Olympic flame. 

The lunchtime vista also foreshadowed our third tour stop to, and my eyes' first views of, the globe's third-tallest freestanding structure, Tokyo Skytree. 

While my hunch before arrival was that the world's loftiest broadcast tower would be visible from anywhere across Tokyo, that assumption proved untrue. 

Rather, my first sightings of the 2,080-foot/634m building were from the penthouse lunch and from street level a few blocks from arrival, where our driver plunged his vehicle into a subterranean parking lot expansive enough to fit fifty -- that's 50! -- tour buses. Since our party including official Tokyo tourism officials, we parked in space No. 1, naturally). 

Inside the tower's base, I found the cavernous lobby akin to Lower Manhattan's National Sept. 11 Memorial atrium in terms of comfortably accommodating thousands of daily visitors and keeping them engaged whilst waiting in long lines for four custom express Toshiba elevators -- each designed to highlight traditional and elegant Japanese handicrafts celebrating each season -- built to whisk 40 passengers at a time. By the way, advance ticket purchases are very strongly suggested for families, couples and/or solo travelers. 

Our group was treated to views from an "off limits" peek up the tower's frame, an "architectural upskirt view" a U.K. reporter quipped to the groans of some and bewilderment of our hosts. 

Strangely, my ears did not pop when we unloaded on what is named Floor 350 (the levels correspond with meters above terra firma). Our first stop: The W1SH Ribbon monument at which visitors may purchase a gashapon vended bubble enclosing a swatch of colored fabric on which guests write their hopes or dreams for others or themselves. 

It was fun to tether my green-n-Sharpie edition on a branch near Olympic and World Champion Sergei Bubka tied his message the previous day, according to our guide. 

I spent our remaining time at Tembo Deck snapping photos and spotting landmarks across the cityscape. 

One unexpected sight was the outdoor window washers smiling back at dazed tourists. 

Though not as knee-quake terrifying as Chicago's Skydeck, there's also an expanse of glass flooring for those who wish to look at SkyTree's design from up top to bottom (cue the overheard Brit wit comment "downblouse!" views).  

The entourage then ascended to the Tembo Galleria at 450m, which features a wrap-around ramp to reach on foot the tour's apex at 451.2m, Sorakara Point, for more views. 

Sadly, the afternoon sky and horizon was only clear enough to make out the mountain range to our west, but not the all-star attraction, Fujisan. 

But our SkyTree experience did include a view of Mt. Fuji in that to promote the tower's home district and its hundreds of years of cultural history, as well as less-celebrated green initiatives, developers and Tokyo University's faculty of international tourism management collaborated to create "a traditional hands-on craft learning program for our sustainable planet" or #SusPla, from the first three letters of the last two words. 

Our handicraft du jour: Make your own mini screen, offered by Kataoka Byoubu, which enabled each member of our tour to create and take home a Edo keepsake. To recall the day, my screen selection was a semi-glossy version of Red Fuji, the famous woodblock print, and the mini screen now adorns a bedroom bookshelf. 

The hands-on program also offers Kimekomi fabric ball crafting and other cultural experiences. We all had a great time with our glue-coated paint brushes, but none of us were having a ball. 

Each of our tour hosts, from the bus team and guides to the owners of Takarayu and instructors at Kataoka Byoubu, earned sustained ovations and expressions of domo arigato for creating a fantastic introduction to several aspects of Tokyo. 

I also appreciated the Tokyo Metro Government office for providing a helpful brochure for the city, and interesting read during a family cafe meal en route to Japan National Stadium for my first night at the World Championships (more on that in next post to this site).  

A few nights later at another penthouse viewing point I caught my only nighttime glimpses of the SkyTree, brilliantly illuminated in violet for the World Athletics Championships, bringing to mind the tower's Olympic hues during the Tokyo 2020 Games-turned-2021 (see below). 

Tokyo shows the world how to bring home the beacon. 

Image credits: Top photo by Jordan McChesney; most other photos by Nicholas Wolaver except the screen image of Red Fuji via this retail site. Olympic and Tokyo 2025 images copyright Tokyo-Skytree

Tokyo Bound: Athletes and Japan National Stadium Prep for Sept. 2025 World Athletics Championships

On a rainy night at Rio's 2016 Olympic closing ceremony, when Japan's Prime Minister Shinzo Abe emerged as the Nintendo plumber renamed "Ma-RIO" to slyly start Tokyo 2020's handover ceremony, I shook off my umbrella and set sights on The Eastern Capital with what seemed a manageable four-year wait for the Games of the XXXIInd Olympiad. 

By that time in my summer Games journeys, Beijing 2008 still felt overwhelming, austerity stood out from London 2012, and Brazil's effort was wrapping up with too many hot mess memories, inspiring dreamy predictions of Japan delivering a Tokyo Olympiad of precision, hospitality, efficiency, modernism and rich culture. 

"Finally, an 'easy' Olympics!" might be possible. Or so I thought. 

After many plans gelled for summer 2020 -- like a cake volunteer gig with the Team USA Welcome Center or solid ticket options confirmed -- COVID happened. And though a year later the USOPC press team generously added my name and the little blog that could to their Tokyo 2020, er, 2021 accredited media list, the last-minute green light quickly resumed Rising Sun red as balls got dropped and deadlines passed -- by a partner outlet's designated "COVID Manager" and myself -- preventing passage to Japan. 

With bleak pre-Games realities, a touch of food poisoning at a 25th Anniversary party for Atlanta 1996 became the July 2021 "icing" on the cake of dismay that the new Tokyo Olympiad would be seen only from far, far away.

This preamble is all to state: It's been a long nine years since Rio, but when Tokyo 2025 emerged as site of the World Athletics Championships, and after a splendid visit to the 2023 version at Budapest, prospects for a track & field "mini-Olympic re-do" inside Japan National Stadium made me smile. 

Now, in three days, it's wheels up from the world's busiest airport (ATL) to the world's largest city. Hooray!

With an International Sports Press Association badge in pocket, and with thanks to USATF's press team for accepting the accredited media request, by Sept. 16 evening I'll next be posting from inside Japan National Stadium and the nearby Shinjuku hotel ... not the Park Hyatt Tokyo of "Lost In Translation" fame (closed for renovations through October) but only blocks away. Suntory Time!

For those who wish to tune in stateside, a blend of Peacock, NBC, CNBC and USA Network broadcasts promise live results. A full roster of international viewing options and Tokyo 2025's 14 session details may be accessed via this guide. 

I also urge anyone to view the outstanding array of eye-popping content via the official Instagram @wchtokyo25. Livestreams and many preview packages are also emerging via YouTube.

Team USA's roster announced Sept. 2 includes many brand names from Paris 2024 and the Hungarian capital event, where from steps away in both stadiums we witnessed Katie Moon win more pole vault medals. I'm eager to see Noah Lyles strive to best his 9.79 of last summer's Stade de France 100m final, and Sha'Carri Richardson should also log memorable sprint results. 

Multiple must-see showdowns exist in the 400 and 400m hurdles lineups including Olympic and World Champion Sydney McLaughlin-Levrone and teammates taking on Team Netherlands including my Dutch Crush, 2023 World Champion and Olympic medalist Femke Bol, a personal favorite seen victorious at Budapest who endured a tougher time in some Paris races.

I'll also be keen to see how intensely the men's javelin takes shape with India's Neeraj Chopra and Pakistan's Arshad Nadeem in contention with Germany's Julian Weber. 

And the women's high jump will command my attention and posts with A-list entrants like world record holder/defending World and Olympic champion Yaroslava Mahuchihk of Ukraine and twice Olympic silver medalist Nicola Olyslagers of Australia (her name has a nice ring to it). Also will be watching for Serbia's Angelina Topic, who struggled at Paris as well as Elena Kulichenko, who earned NCAA Outdoor Champion status for the University of Georgia, again representing Cyprus at the global level. 

Outside the stadium I hoped to experience the new Japan Olympic Museum but got the advance "Sorry, folks. Park's closed"-like missive in response to an advance ticket request. Seriously? Who authorized closing the Olympic Museum exactly when the first Olympic-level competition is back in town at the neighboring stadium? 

Oh, well -- next time, and I'll busy myself with Shinjuku hikes, a visit to the Tokyo Olympic Village, a national art museum or two, the Sky Tree and a potential day trip in the direction of either Mount Fuji or the former Olympic surfing venue, which I understand is a two-hour beach-bound bus ride. Exploring at least one historic cinema and/or owl cafe round out the wish list for eight days in Japan.

If there was time, and golf was a passion, trekking to discover the iconic spot of Bill Murray's golf swing (see below) would also fit. Way more chill than "Mount Fuji In Red" from Akira Kurosawa's "Dreams" sequence. 

Two of my maternal cousins each contributed personal "Tales of Old Japan" inspiration to this journey. Larry Campell -- who was many decades my senior, a newspaperman, author, entrepreneur and decorated Marine Corps pilot of Korea and Vietnam -- cheerfully shared when I was 16 and he was 50-something his reporting duties at Tokyo '64 (my recollection is he filed reports for Oklahoma City's newspaper back in the day). Most of my journalism aspirations launched at Minnesota State University-Mankato, and later the creation of this blog, are thanks to Larry. Domo arigato, Rary-san!

And Kris Ladusau, another Sooner State native, more recently shared notes from her many visits to Japan as a student, judoka and later professional roles in sharing the rich wisdom and lessons of Buddhism. Kokorokara kansha shimasu, Kurisu!

So, an eye on their recommendations is also part of the plan. 

See you in Japan!

Images via World Athletics / Tokyo 2025; Abe photo by David Ramos/Getty. Bol photo via World Athletics and Getty. Mahuchikh photo via AP/Matthias Schrader. "Lost In Translation" still via Focus Features/Sophia Coppola. 

LA28, White House Set Up Task Force ... Majeure?

Evening headlines of Aug. 4 perked up my ears and eyebrows as LA28 and The White House apparently are announcing an Olympic planning task force on Aug. 5. 

I wrote to The White House press office team to ask more, and here's the two statements they shared (their reply in less than five minutes did impress):

"During his first term, President Trump was instrumental in securing America's bid to host the 2028 Summer Olympics in Los Angeles. 

Credit: Hisham Ibrahim for Getty Images

The President considers it a great honor to oversee this global sporting spectacle in his second term. Sports is one of President Trump's greatest passions, and his athletic expertise, combined with his unmatched hospitality experience, will make these Olympic events the most exciting and memorable in history," -- Karoline Leavitt [36th White House press secretary]

"On behalf of LA28, I want to express our deep appreciation to President Trump and his Administration for their leadership and unwavering support as we prepare to deliver the largest and most ambitious Olympic and Paralympic Games ever hosted in the United States. Since we secured this historic opportunity in 2017, President Trump has consistently recognized the magnitude of our responsibility in welcoming the world to Los Angeles. The creation of this task force marks an important step forward in our planning efforts and reflects our shared commitment to delivering not just the biggest, but the greatest Games the world has ever seen in the summer of 2028." -- Casey Wasserman, Chairperson and President of LA28. 

How concerning should this be? 

On one hand, as reported elsewhere and as observed firsthand or reading history around U.S. Olympic host organizing committees since Lake Placid 1980, the Games engaging the federal government is standard operating procedure. So, it makes perfect sense that LA28 teams up with the U.S. government for security, prepping eased entry to the U.S. for international guests, transportation and on other fronts. 

On the other hand, I don't recall any previous White House -- except for President Carter pulling Team USA out of the Moscow 1980 Games to lead/inspire what became a multinational boycott -- making "a thing" about their involvement with the Games. Rather, the modus operandi was seemingly on the down low, or perhaps so mundane as to warrant zero media coverage (though I did find online an archived May 1996 White House release from the office of the press secretary outlining preparations for Atlanta).

Karen Bass by Myung J Chun/LA Times

But the timing for tomorrow's shared LA28/Executive Branch ceremony is curiously, closely on the heels of Mayor of Los Angeles Karen Bass' recent comments critical of the president. The City of LA is in its own negotiation with LA28 regarding an array of agreements and funding (I won't try to summarize here but the LA Times did so on Aug. 2 at this link). 

The White House did provide previous reassurances of federal support, as reported when the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic officials met with the president this spring. 

Only Tuesday's ceremony with Wasserman, and time, will tell what the future holds for LA28, its federal support/input and how the president will engage. One hopes any presidential oversight will be only from a distance. 

Image credit: LA28 masthead via LinkedIn; The White House image by Hisham Ibrahim for Getty Images; LA28 logo mashup via TimeOut/LA28. Karen Bass photo by Myung J. Chun for LA Times.

LA28, Archer Announce Olympic Flights of Fancy

As LA28 continues its march to the next summer Olympics, the organization recently enjoyed a trio of headline news items tethered to flags, flat beds and flights of fancy.

The first and biggest news: On May 15, California-based Archer, an emerging avionics enterprise, signed on as LA28's official air taxi provider, a new official supporter category for a summer Games. 

Four days later, New York-based Saatva emerged as the official mattress brand to literally support athletes by providing "mattresses, linens and pillows ... ensuring they get the restorative sleep critical to recovery and overall wellbeing," according to their release**. 

And as of May 20, the NFL cleared players for flag football's XXXIVth Olympiad debut. 

About those air taxis ... according to the announcement, which painted some broad strokes, collaborators "will look to integrate Archer's Midnight eVTOL aircraft across the LA28 Games in a variety of ways, such as transporting VIPs, fans and stakeholders, while electrifying vertiport [takeoff/landing] hubs for key venues and providing support for emergency services and security."

Inspired to learn more, brief research yielded a July 2024 article in the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, which reported from a suburban airport near Archer's plant being built in Covington, Ga. According to the article and other sources, eVTOL is the acronym for electric vertical takeoff and landing (like heliports or helipads, the new aircraft destinations are named vertiports). Sidebar: Bell Textron provided air support at the 1996 Olympics in Atlanta, per this trade article of that era.  

Archer's CEO elevated their news with an appearance on "The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon," which filled in a few more blanks. 

For each answer, however, additional questions emerged, and to date the abundance of launch news coverage did not answer the following:

Q: At Olympic venues, where specifically will the vertiports be located?

Partial A: An August press release gets more in the weeds about a "taxi network" but I'm wondering how far of a walk or golf cart ride from landing to getting one's Olympic ticket scanned at LA Coliseum since a glance at Google Maps reveals a dearth of open real estate for a vertiport installation. 

From LA Coliseum the nearest helipad is a mile north

Q: What capacity is planned for passengers? 

Partial A: Crunching some numbers, even if there is room to simultaneously land 10 eVTOLs at one vertiport, with up to four passengers landing every 15 minutes, that's only 160 passengers transported per hour for a venue with, say, 80,000 to 100,000 seats. 

(10 aircraft x 4 passengers x 4 landings per hour = 160 individuals per hour arriving at venues per hour ... or 320 in the two hours prior to a ticketed event start time).

Q: From what pool will they hire dozens to hundreds of air taxi pilots?

Q: How will LA28/Archer crack the code that eluded European competitors from an air taxi launch during Paris 2024? 

Q: How much will it cost per taxi fare (on top of, say, at $500 track & field ticket)?

Q: What exactly did they mean by the press release statement that the sponsorship includes "access to storytelling [on NBC's] Games coverage, including moments like the 2028 opening and closing ceremonies."?

According to Google Maps, SoFi Stadium has zero nearby helipads -- who pays? 

On this last question, my gut answer starts with "Oh, no -- please don't deliver the torch in an eVTOL!" 

Even if the electric aircraft are quieter than the helicopter used to deliver the LA84 Closing Ceremonies "UFO" or Queen Elizabeth's parachute from an AgustaWestland AW139 at London 2012's opening, any stunt that distracts from hero athletes seems abaft. 

I do wish for Archer to succeed in their delivery of the Games' first Olympic air taxi service. It's exciting to see their ambitious plans taking shape in LA and other major U.S. cities including Chicago. 

If given the chance, would you arrive at the Olympics via Midnight eVTOL? Let me know your answers in the comments!

Image credits: LA28/Archer, Google Maps, Saatva.com, Ebay via WorthPoint.

**Snarky two cents: Saatva's press team wins the gold (err, tin) medal for hyperbole, using "proud" not once but pridefully thrice in their press release lede. Clearly, they missed the articles by Adweek and Trust Insights in 2024 and 2019, respectively, penned by authors admonishing publicists to avoid overused keywords. To their credit, however, they weren't thrilled but the USOPP CEO was, according to his PR-penned quote. Eyeroll. 

***Bonus snark: Saatva also may have set a world record for the longest press release lede paragraph, tossing out AP Style simplicity for an astounding seven lines of copy.